Shoe Patterning off of a last

Patterning off of the last

Once you have your last you will create a pattern, off of the last. The picture in fig. 16 is of a last covered with fabric with tape used to hold it in place. I have used fabric with quite a bit of success. The Fabric will lay out flat and allow you to transfer the pattern more easily to some form of rigid material, such as poster board. The photo in fig. 17 is of another last covered with foam wrap and athletic tape. This method allows for a more form fitting pattern, which is necessary when creating boots which will lace closed and closely follow the curvature of the leg.  The resulting tape pattern is more difficult to work with, than the fabric, because it will not lay flat and will require more care when transferring to poster board.

fig. 16

fig. 17

After the last is covered, I use a marker to draw the locations of the seams. The seam lines will also be your cut lines for this step.

Transfer the pattern to poster board or some other material, which will allow you to trace around it more easily. For the most part the cut lines will be the same from the fabric to the poster board except the bottom edge. This bottom edge will need to be extended about a half of an inch. This extension is known as the lasting margin, which will be explained in further detail later. Please take note: If the shoes you are creating will require a seam allowance, please add them where appropriate.  

fig. 18

Above is an example a fabric pattern (fig. 16) and below is an example cardboard pattern after being traced. (fig. 18)

 Note: I mark all of the pattern pieces left or right prior to cutting them out. (ex: L this side up)

fig. 19

You will also want to make a sole pattern. I take a sheet of paper and lay it over the bottom of the last. Use the broad side of the pencil lead, trace the sharp edge of the last. This is the sole area of the last. You will want to take this step now, and not earlier because of changes in the sole area created during the carving process of the last.